Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2014 18:31:01 GMT -5
Beautiful little unit. I hope the angle of the screen and polarized glasses does not create a problem for you... that's the main downside to mounting in the console - especially when off to the side from the drivers position at least.... My buddy put a 12 in his console and I've got to tilt my head at odd angles at times. You'll like the unit up front - are you mounting a dedicated xducer, or going to use your transom xducer and network the HDS12 to the HDS8 and just display the screen. The pro is you don't have a transducer cable flopping around on the bow-mount RipTide and don't have to worry about the cable snapping when you turn the motor head around and around (or the AnchorLock feature does such for you) - the downside is you are looking 19' behind you, which when catching bait in shallow water can mean you're throwing 19' from where the bait is.... Well... As usual, I need more. With my TM you can run the wire up through the groove thus eliminating the wire twist issue. The trick is simply to remove the head, pull the shaft out, route the wire, put the shaft back in, epoxy (marine goop) the wire to the groove, put the head back on and do all the other things the typical install does. I'm on it! |
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Brian
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Post by Brian on Sept 12, 2014 18:18:39 GMT -5
As usual, I need more. With my TM you can run the wire up through the groove thus eliminating the wire twist issue. The trick is simply to remove the head, pull the shaft out, route the wire, put the shaft back in, epoxy (marine goop) the wire to the groove, put the head back on and do all the other things the tyical install does. I'm on it! Please document this project with mwardsnusnu level of pics and detail! Have you considered putting sidescan on the trolling motor? |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 14, 2014 15:00:40 GMT -5
As usual, I need more. With my TM you can run the wire up through the groove thus eliminating the wire twist issue. The trick is simply to remove the head, pull the shaft out, route the wire, put the shaft back in, epoxy (marine goop) the wire to the groove, put the head back on and do all the other things the tyical install does. I'm on it! Please document this project with mwardsnusnu level of pics and detail! Have you considered putting sidescan on the trolling motor? This morning, I started the transducer install. I simply removed the head by unscrewing various screws and slid the shaft out of the base. Very simple. The Lowrance cable is really big, thus a small notch is needed. As shown, I used my trusty Dremel tool. You have 1/4 inch of thickness to play with and only need a small notch (1/16 or so).  This notch also allows a better seat for the glue. As shown, I used marine goop and cable ties. You can also see the wire going through the collar with the shaft.  Now the transducer wire spins with the shaft rather than around it. I tested it by turning the motor 4 complete turns and was more concerned with the trolling motor wires. With other non-Lowrance transducers, you don't even need to cut the notch. Problem solved. |
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Brian
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Post by Brian on Sept 14, 2014 17:51:16 GMT -5
This morning, I started the transducer install. I simply removed the head by unscrewing various screws and slid the shaft out of the base. Very simple. The Lowrance cable is really big, thus a small notch is needed. As shown, I used my trusty Dremel tool. You have 1/4 inch of thickness to play with and only need a small notch (1/16 or so). View AttachmentThis notch also allows a better seat for the glue. As shown, I used marine goop and cable ties. You can also see the wire going through the collar with the shaft. View AttachmentNow the transducer wire spins with the shaft rather than around it. I tested it by turning the motor 4 complete turns and was more concerned with the trolling motor wires. With other non-Lowrance transducers, you don't even need to cut the notch. Problem solved. That is fantastic! Pretty ballsy whipping out the dremel like that. |
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 14, 2014 20:36:08 GMT -5
Definately need to do this - have my replacement xducer on the kitchen counter and waited today to install it to see how you made out. The shaft is a composite or fiberglass right? So no need to repaint to protect against corrosion? Can you snap a pic of where it comes through the other side of the steering motor? Want to see how you routed the cable on the top side. Maybe the addition of the wire and epoxy will strengthen the shaft against submerged tree impacts  |
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Post by formula180 on Sept 14, 2014 21:06:14 GMT -5
If you had an oscilloscope, you could check the level of interference getting on the power line. You also may be able to use a multimeter on the AC scale.
Also some trolling motors use an SCR for controlling the power to the motor by pulsing it on and off. You could also add a capacitor at the power cable before it enters the control board. This may reduce some of the static since it is closest to the source.
The ideal solution is to locate the transducer as far from the motor as possible. I have a trolling motor here so I will hook it to a battery tomorrow and see if a multimeter shows anything.
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 14, 2014 21:14:15 GMT -5
I just posted up a good article on TM interference that I had tucked away. My main transducer is mounted about as far away from the trolling motor as possible - transom vs. bow  but having a TM mounted xducer is useful when searching for bait - hence the interest in the cable routing on the Riptide / Terrova models. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2014 7:45:08 GMT -5
Definately need to do this - have my replacement xducer on the kitchen counter and waited today to install it to see how you made out. The shaft is a composite or fiberglass right? So no need to repaint to protect against corrosion? Can you snap a pic of where it comes through the other side of the steering motor? Want to see how you routed the cable on the top side. Maybe the addition of the wire and epoxy will strengthen the shaft against submerged tree impacts Yes, the shaft is a composite material with ridiculous strength in the shaft axis but will splinter if hit perpendicular to the shaft. But even a splintered shaft will hold that heavy motor. No need to paint. BTW... the marine goop is awesome. Goes on like thick water. It is easier to apply than silicone and hardens like epoxy. As it cures, you can easily wipe it off. And after it cures, you can scrape it off everything that is not mated. Great stuff! PICS: Cable ties and head. Note the white cable tie is permanent and the groove in the head that the cable can follow.  Testing the twist.  Professionalizing the install. Note the HDS8 cables routed through the TM mount. Also note the position of the transducer. The wire is tight.. so after you glue, you wouldn't want the transducer to get stuck in the supports.  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2014 7:50:58 GMT -5
MORE PICS: I used two small cable ties to secure transducer cable to the TM wire coil at the top and bottom.  I then cable tied a cable tie to the TM plug wire to provide a loop for the slack to go through.  OH YEAH...she works great!  |
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Brian
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Post by Brian on Sept 15, 2014 11:36:43 GMT -5
If the TM power wires coiled around the ducer cable like transformer windings doesn't couple noise onto the sonar then I don't know what will (Not saying you will have a problem but it's kinda funny after reading that article on interference that mward posted) |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2014 12:00:08 GMT -5
If the TM power wires coiled around the ducer cable like transformer windings doesn't couple noise onto the sonar then I don't know what will (Not saying you will have a problem but it's kinda funny after reading that article on interference that mward posted) I am a bit worried as well after reading that. However, I think the coiled wire just deals with control signals. What I am concerned with is the power cord of the TM. Maybe "cable tying a cable tie" to the power cord might not be good?? I now know I had some interference on my side imaging when I turned on the TM. The image would be good but it would turn from deep blue to a lighter blue. I am quite sure my battery cables are touching my SS transducer cable in my CC. So much to test, so little time. |
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 15, 2014 14:40:32 GMT -5
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Post by archenemy on Sept 15, 2014 15:59:58 GMT -5
This may sound crazy but I had the same type of interference with my hds8 with riptide tm mounted ducer. An easy way to test a potential fix is to run a 14 gauge wire (above deck) from the surface of the tm motor casing to the cranking battery ground. I assume you have the HDS grounded and powered by the cranking battery. The older power heads used to have a ground terminal u could access and do the same thing.
I read it somewhere after doing hours of research.
Sent from my XT1080 using proboards
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2014 16:44:06 GMT -5
This may sound crazy but I had the same type of interference with my hds8 with riptide tm mounted ducer. An easy way to test a potential fix is to run a 14 gauge wire (above deck) from the surface of the tm motor casing to the cranking battery ground. I assume you have the HDS grounded and powered by the cranking battery. The older power heads used to have a ground terminal u could access and do the same thing. I read it somewhere after doing hours of research. Sent from my XT1080 using proboards Thanks, I will put that in my toolbelt. I sure don't understand that. Why not just ground your TM batteries to your cranking battery? Hmmmmm. |
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Post by archenemy on Sept 15, 2014 16:55:18 GMT -5
That's exactly what I said but it for some reason it does not fix the problem. Doing that can actually cause bigger problems. In my many hours of research the "experts" state that doing that can cause an instantaneous cycle of electrolysis leading to the early demise of your tm and possibly other electronics. I suck at electronics and dont understand most of it but I did take heed. My trolling motor series does not run to boat or cranking battery ground.
Sent from my XT1080 using proboards
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but having a TM mounted xducer is useful when searching for bait - hence the interest in the cable routing on the Riptide / Terrova models. 
