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Post by Pete D. on Sept 21, 2014 20:28:04 GMT -5
Probably makes ya wish you got the unit with universal sonar 2 (US2)!!!
Yam, I had my humminbird transducer run this way, with the power wire coiled around it like that and had no issues at all. Didnt need to dremel the groove either.
I have read recently, that the GEN2 units can use the HDI transducer on the trolling motor so that you can have downscan and 2d sonar. Ill have to back up that statement and pull my resources.
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 21, 2014 21:04:17 GMT -5
I don't know why Minnkota does not offer the Riptide with USH2. The Humminbird cable is thinner than the Lowrance - thus the need to make a little more room. I know you Humminbird guys are used to your shaft leaving spare room   Yam - keep us updated - I'm interested in a longevity update re: wear on the cable. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2014 6:13:47 GMT -5
So far so good in terms of cable integrity. I anchor lock twisted several times. Marine goop held as well and TM deployment/stow was easy.
More importantly for me, minimal interference. I did note that different speed settings caused varying degrees of interference, none of which caused any problems with reading the graph. Secondly, the interference seen on the front unit was not on the 12. I suppose this means power interference. Again.. Very minimal.
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Post by archenemy on Sept 22, 2014 6:34:33 GMT -5
Good to hear your interference is minimized ! My front unit experienced more interference as the motor speed increased as well. Since the interference was lightening or washing out the image it made it real hard to see the details in the sun. Keep in mind I'm looking at SS not sonar.
Nice setup and great job with the routing.
Sent from my XT1080 using proboards
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Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2014 9:20:50 GMT -5
Good to hear your interference is minimized ! My front unit experienced more interference as the motor speed increased as well. Since the interference was lightening or washing out the image it made it real hard to see the details in the sun. Keep in mind I'm looking at SS not sonar. Nice setup and great job with the routing. Sent from my XT1080 using proboards Thanks. I guess I could drive myself nuts and strive for perfect screens with absolutely no interference. However, I am telling myself VERY LOUDLY that I have more important things to focus on.  |
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 22, 2014 16:55:57 GMT -5
So far so good in terms of cable integrity. I anchor lock twisted several times. Marine goop held as well and TM deployment/stow was easy. I'm specifically curious if you get scraping / wear on the cable sheathing - or any pinching...... hoping it holds up well - want to do the same with mine |
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Post by archenemy on Sept 22, 2014 17:41:45 GMT -5
Are you thinking your cable is bigger than his ?
Sent from my XT1080 using proboards
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Post by mwardncsu on Sept 22, 2014 19:23:23 GMT -5
Are you thinking your cable is bigger than his ? Sent from my XT1080 using proboards Cable or shaft |
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Post by CorneliaGale on Sept 22, 2014 22:47:25 GMT -5
Shafts must a lot thicker than the one I replaced a couple of years ago, no way you could have done that to it.
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Post by Pete D. on Nov 17, 2014 10:16:13 GMT -5
So thanks to Yam, I did the same mod on my motor. We will see how this works. Worked fine with the bird, but this time around I had to dremel my precious TM shaft.
Here's another way to do this:
Minnkota will sell you the US2 nose cone for $115, and it will bolt right up to the existing motor housing. With misc. parts and shipping, you are going to be just above $200. Only downside really is that the nose would now be black. Sounds like a really good option though........
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Post by mwardncsu on Nov 17, 2014 10:56:54 GMT -5
using the US2 nose cone is not a bad way either, especially if you have not already purchased an xducer to use - that alone runs about $80. You could always paint the black nose-cone if you wanted..... So far my mod is doing well - 9 trips in so far since doing it to mine and all is holding up - I've not tried to ram it hard into a submerged tree or anything yet but the deploy/stow is working smoothly and the glue I used (the regular Goop - could not find Marine Goop) is holding the cable to the shaft well - we'll see how the full cycle of thermal changes in winter then summer do..... |
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Post by Pete D. on Nov 17, 2014 11:30:29 GMT -5
using the US2 nose cone is not a bad way either, especially if you have not already purchased an xducer to use - that alone runs about $80. You could always paint the black nose-cone if you wanted..... So far my mod is doing well - 9 trips in so far since doing it to mine and all is holding up - I've not tried to ram it hard into a submerged tree or anything yet but the deploy/stow is working smoothly and the glue I used (the regular Goop - could not find Marine Goop) is holding the cable to the shaft well - we'll see how the full cycle of thermal changes in winter then summer do..... Cool brother, glad to hear it! If I snap my 48" shaft, I will get the 54" and a US2 nosecone. Until then Im going to run what I brung. |
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Post by Pete D. on Nov 17, 2014 15:17:28 GMT -5
Ward,
Which motor are you running 55 or 80? How deep did you dremel into the shaft? I went very lightly a few times and kept trying but the wire kept feeling snug. I think all said and done I dremeled out 3/32" from the shaft. At that point, it felt like I had enough room not to tear into my cable, causing a short and frying my electronics!!! But I did dremel out a little more than I initially anticipated. Luckily for me though, I only have the 48" shaft and the 55lb motor. These same shafts hold the 112lb 36v motors and can also be nearly twice as long.
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Post by mwardncsu on Nov 17, 2014 16:10:34 GMT -5
I have the ST80 with a 60" shaft.... Hard to tell how much I took out - I think there is right at 1/4" of material in that grove to work with - I think I probably took close to 1/8" at the deepest point.....
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Post by striperjohn on Nov 17, 2014 17:16:54 GMT -5
Arch you are correct. By combining grounds from entirely different circuits you are essentially combining the problems of one with the other. Ground in Dc circuits are not the same as ac grounds and busbars etc. Any power cable that runs near a data cable will induce voltage into it unless the data cable is highly shielded. If you have a voltage surge in the main battery circuit it is very likely that surge will effect any ground to ground connection simply because you have no earth ground but a negative return connection for that circuit. You have made all circuits susceptible to surges when you connect their grounds.
Sent from my SM-G900R4 using proboards
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