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Post by smlmike on Aug 29, 2015 7:51:33 GMT -5
Batteries are not charging. I can jump it and it will run at speed, but will shut off at idle or if I hit the tilt/trim. One battery is two months old. I unhooked everything except motor and the console. I am chagrin good battery as we speak, but had left it on charge two weeks ago and died an hour in this morning. I cleaned the terminals also.
Two questions:
Is this an alternator problem?
Good mechanic close the R25?
Thanks ahead of time!!!
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Post by striperjohn on Aug 29, 2015 9:24:37 GMT -5
Mike there are so many things it could be; for example the batteries may need water, in this heat they lose fluid quickly. Low fluid they will charge but not hold it long. You might have a short to ground on your tilt/trim, etc. Could be a bad alternator but thats easy to test with a meter.
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Post by smlmike on Aug 29, 2015 9:46:30 GMT -5
I am not good with engines, I know some basics. I think it has to be the charging system on the motor? Gonna try to take it some where today. Thanks
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Post by formula180 on Aug 29, 2015 9:56:12 GMT -5
I would disconnect the positive cable and use an amp meter to determine what the leakage current is. Meters with protection will trip due to the surge current when connecting so you have to hold the cable to the battery terminal and then with the negative lead of the meter on the cable and the positive lead of the meter on the battery terminal, remove the cable from the battery terminal.
The life of the battery can be reduced if it is not charged weekly by running the engine. If you find a high leakage current, start disconnecting components until you find the problem. There can also be a component in the alternator like a diode that has gone bad and causing discharge.
If the battery cables have aged, you could have a bad cable between the motor and battery. You can disconnect the cable and ohm it out for high resistance...sounds like the problem. Also you can check the specific gravity of each battery cell to determine if you have a bad battery cell which will be high resistance and not allow the battery to charge.
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Post by smlmike on Aug 29, 2015 16:17:03 GMT -5
Formula can you type that in plain English? lol!
I got it jump started and to it to a mechanic. None of the electrical is working and the two month old battery was completely dead after dropping it off. Wouldn't even charge after running it up the the lake.
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Post by smlmike on Aug 29, 2015 16:40:00 GMT -5
I wish my knowledge of vehicles and boats was the same as remodeling homes! Dang gone mechanics charge a lot more than carpenters/contractors.
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Post by getlinewet on Aug 30, 2015 12:07:27 GMT -5
I am not a mechanic, but I read this about my 50 hp Honda:
"Early on, the mechanic at a sportfish camp in Hakai (running Honda 50s on 17' Boston Whalers) told me that the charging coils would go after 500 hours, and that is exactly what happened. The charging coils are easy to replace, and you can tell when replacement is needed because the tachometer stops working. The engine runs fine with bad charging coils, but when the battery finally wears down you will have to pull start. This engine pull starts very easily, though taking the flywheel protector off means removing four bolts, which is inconvenient."
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Post by smlmike on Aug 30, 2015 12:21:57 GMT -5
True!! My tach did stop working about a month or so ago.
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Post by fujimo on Aug 30, 2015 13:41:26 GMT -5
the stater is bad on the engine that's what charges the cranking battery
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Post by Pete D. on Aug 31, 2015 8:35:04 GMT -5
Glad you found it out. I wish I had seen this post earlier, been working out outboards for a number of years now. What I have noticed is the rectifiers fry, then tach/misc electronics start acting wonky. Bad recto can be caused by a bad stater. The stater does not only charge the battery, it also keeps the engine running. The magnets on the flywheel pass by the coils creating an alternating current. The AC goes two places. One side gets converted by the rectifier to DC voltage and that keeps the boat electronics going as well as charges the battery. The other aspect makes its way to the ignition coils (first passing through a relay (Yamaha), switchbox (Mercury) or a trigger (Johnson/E-rude)) and then to the spark plugs to create fire. Trust me one of the most frustrating aspects of outboard motors is finding an intermittent electrical problem.
Either way, glad you figured it out. Just hope that this melted stater didn't take any other components out on it's way down.................
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Post by fujimo on Aug 31, 2015 9:23:58 GMT -5
when my stater went out on my 175 Johnson man smoke poured out of the hood like everything was on fire just so happened the stater is all that messed up
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Post by smlmike on Aug 31, 2015 9:41:32 GMT -5
The rectifier
(on top of the flywheel?) was very hot to the touch when I limped it to the mechanic. Initial review from him was wiring was not melted. Thats exactly how he explained it to me Sutor. He seems to think the stator or the rectifier crapped out. All my gauges had gone haywire during this.
I will let everyone know what he finds.
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Post by Pete D. on Aug 31, 2015 10:18:58 GMT -5
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Post by fujimo on Aug 31, 2015 11:42:28 GMT -5
more than likely going to be Stator
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Post by fujimo on Aug 31, 2015 11:46:35 GMT -5
could be both with the wires melted you didn't see any smoke I was fishing a bass tournament at Kerr when mine went out it was all I could do to keep my fishing partner from jumping out the boat he thought it had caught on fire ?
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