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Post by shortrun on Aug 11, 2015 6:42:12 GMT -5
When trolling artificial bait do you use the trolling motor or do you guys use the big motor.I have read anywhere between 1 and 3 mph. Is this correct. Thanks for the help.
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Gator
New Member
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Post by Gator on Aug 11, 2015 6:58:43 GMT -5
It depends on how fast I want to troll. For the most part I use my big motor for artificial baits for stripers. My big motor will troll at 2.8-3.0mph at its lowest and I can bump it up if I feel like I need more speed. Some guys troll as much as 4.0 -4.5 with success. I like it a bit slower.
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johnr
New Member
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Post by johnr on Aug 11, 2015 8:37:07 GMT -5
I use the gas motor too. I have the VTS which let's me change rpm in increments of 50 from 500-1200rpm.
I prefer to troll faster, with spoons especially. Near 5mph in the summer with big spoons.
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Post by shortrun on Aug 11, 2015 9:23:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the information. I have a basstracker allimium with 50 HP. I did not know if trolling was hard on motor.
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Gator
New Member
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Post by Gator on Aug 11, 2015 10:00:30 GMT -5
Thanks for the information. I have a basstracker allimium with 50 HP. I did not know if trolling was hard on motor. It can be rough on your spark plugs. At least it is on mine. I would recommend that you run some gas through her every so often to help from fouling your plugs. I keep extra plugs on my rig that are already gaped and indexed.
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Post by mwardncsu on Aug 11, 2015 10:11:04 GMT -5
Moved to the general section since this is more of a point question - the How-To's section is more intended for tutorial write-ups on topics....
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Post by mwardncsu on Aug 11, 2015 10:17:11 GMT -5
Probably getting off topic here but oh well..... It may be snake-oil, but I've heard lots of good things about running Yamaha RingFree - Dale at Bayside recommends it and says he can tell which engines use it and don't by the lack of carbon build-up on those engines running RingFree.... says he sees a lot of carbon build-up on engines that troll a lot.
Gator - I learned something today about indexing spark-plugs - I've always just screwed them in and gone on..... thanks!
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Post by formula180 on Aug 18, 2015 11:34:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the information. I have a basstracker allimium with 50 HP. I did not know if trolling was hard on motor. It can be rough on your spark plugs. At least it is on mine. I would recommend that you run some gas through her every so often to help from fouling your plugs. I keep extra plugs on my rig that are already gaped and indexed. You are one of the few people that index their plugs. Honda indexes their plugs on one of their models to get better fuel economy. They divide the cylinder head into four quadrants and label them A, B, C, and D which is stamped on the cylinder. The objective is to make sure the electron post does not block the spark from the combustion chamber. So when you buy new plugs, you pay a premium for indexed plugs. I index the plugs on all my vehicles and even utility engines. I made an index plate to find a reference point for each cylinder. Once I have a reference, I can determine what degree range will point the open gap at the intake valve. Then I go to one of the auto parts stores with my index plate and select the plugs I need for each cylinder. To de-carbon the engine, just run it wide open throttle after idling for an extended period of time. If you have a carburetor, you can use a spray like the Marine Motor De-carb. You could also use Sea Foam added to the gas.
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Post by striperjohn on Aug 18, 2015 12:04:04 GMT -5
It can be rough on your spark plugs. At least it is on mine. I would recommend that you run some gas through her every so often to help from fouling your plugs. I keep extra plugs on my rig that are already gaped and indexed. You are one of the few people that index their plugs. Honda indexes their plugs on one of their models to get better fuel economy. They divide the cylinder head into four quadrants and label them A, B, C, and D which is stamped on the cylinder. The objective is to make sure the electron post does not block the spark from the combustion chamber. So when you buy new plugs, you pay a premium for indexed plugs. I index the plugs on all my vehicles and even utility engines. I made an index plate to find a reference point for each cylinder. Once I have a reference, I can determine what degree range will point the open gap at the intake valve. Then I go to one of the auto parts stores with my index plate and select the plugs I need for each cylinder. To de-carbon the engine, just run it wide open throttle after idling for an extended period of time. If you have a carburetor, you can use a spray like the Marine Motor De-carb. You could also use Sea Foam added to the gas. Instead of going through all the trouble to index your plugs, why not just use multiple electrode plugs? Accomplishes the same goal of getting the gap to within 20 degrees of the intake valve without all the marking and selecting of plugs that align. Many of the offshore boat racers use the Bosch multiple electrode plugs to do just that.
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Post by formula180 on Aug 18, 2015 12:15:25 GMT -5
Instead of going through all the trouble to index your plugs, why not just use multiple electrode plugs? Accomplishes the same goal of getting the gap to within 20 degrees of the intake valve without all the marking and selecting of plugs that align. Many of the offshore boat racers use the Bosch multiple electrode plugs to do just that.
You probably could use Bosch but I always stay with what the manufacture recommends. I have used Bosch plugs in some chainsaws but only if the manufacture recommended them.
The older Mercury gap less plugs are ideal. I am not sure why the outboard manufacturers have not used a gap less plug.
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